Sunday, February 13, 2011

27122010 to 10012011 - Volunteer stint at the orphanage

Day 1 : 27/12

 Arrived at the orphanage in the early afternoon after Pinh picked me up from the guesthouse. After lunch I went straight to the English lesson classroom which was the main scope of my volunteering stint - to teach English. I have absolute zero experience and was actually concerned that I would be more bane than boon for the kids. It was slightly awkward to have everyone staring at me like I’m Frankenstein. When I addressed them and introduced myself they just sat there and looked at me poker faced. It kinda made me wonder if they had any idea what I was talking about. By then I still had not adjusted to speaking very slowly and as basic as possible. I think they were not used to my accent or pronunciation. 


guys' bathroom

my humble crib at the volunteer house




Toured around the compound and saw that they grow their own food. Rice, vegetables, beans, mushrooms, corn and they have poultry like pig, chicken, ducks and a couple of fish ponds. To a certain extent they are being self sufficient which is good because there are charities which wholly depend on donations to buy food. Mr pean who is the founder and director also told me that some of the things they grow are sold and the profits are kept for the kids’ education in the future.








There are a total of 34 children living in the orphanage between the ages of 7-17. it was founded in 2005 and registered only in 2006. Mr Pean had inherited the piece of land from his parents and he told his parents that he would turn it into an orphanage and that was how he gathered the kids in the village and community where he grew up in to the orphanage. I also learnt from Mr Pean that many of these kids lost their parents through HIV and landmines as the surrounding areas are dominantly rice fields. The orphanage conducts maths, khmer literature and English lessons free of charge for needy students from the public school as well. 


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Day 2 : 28/12

Today’s English lesson began with the topic of “what is your new year’s resolution?” Actually I myself don’t really believe in NY res because if something is important to be a resolution, why wait for the new year? I set goals when I deem fit. It was funny to have some boys saying they want to get married. They are only 14-15 yrs old. Most of these kids have very common goals which is for their family to do better and get out of poverty more. Not that they starve like many Africans do but many have only enough to eat and parents struggle to provide for education. These people work so they could eat. While back home we work to attain that material goal that we’ve always wanted. Like a new car, ipad or fancy clothes. It’s absurd because these things you don’t need and people buy them to impress people they don’t even like. See any logic in it? No? Yea me neither.


In the day there was an Australian couple and a Cambodian family from Australia who came to pay a visit. The family brought many gifts and left some spare money for Mr Pean. Sometimes I wonder when people do charity like this by leaving gifts and leave hastily after that, do they do it for the sake of making themselves feel better knowing that they’ve done a good deed or do they do it sincerely from the bottom of their heart? I think it could also be both but it’s a pretty thin line here. Not that I’m judging their goodwill but it’s just food for thought.


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Day 3 : 29/12


Visited Pinh’s mum after lesson today at her home near the orphanage as she had fell ill. We were talking casually when I learnt from him that most of the aid that comes to Cambodia is from overseas. He said that in Cambodia is not as poor as the rest of the world thinks it is as there are actually many rich people around. Some of these rich locals don’t even contribute a single cent because they were not rich before and they are afraid of being poor again after giving. That came as a little shocking revelation to me because I assumed that these people knows what it feels like to be poor and when they become well to do, they would be the ones in the frontline helping their own countrymen.

Pinh and his mum


her more than basic shelter. bedroom/kitchen/
storeroom/living room


The local teachers in public school can earn between 200-500usd /month whereas for Pinh who is currently volunteering as the English teacher and 2ic of the orphanage, only draw a measly 80usd from Mr Pean. Normally he wakes up everyday between 4-5am everyday, lessons from 7-8am, 8-9, 9-10, 10- 1040, 1pm -3pm, 3-4pm. He goes to university at 5pm for lessons from 6-10pm. He comes back at about 11pm after that and it’s the same routine in a couple of hours. He is currently doing his bachelor in English lit in a local uni which is fully sponsored by a german couple. He does this 23-25days a week as the kids come to the orphanage for lessons during Saturdays as well. Yes I believe that many teachers in Singapore are a little overworked sometimes. However the salary and bonuses that they receive should make them grateful if they know what Pinh gets every month.

During dinner Mr Pean got a few large jackfruits out which he said had been given by one of the villagers. It struck me then that despite being poor, these people are one of the most generous people around. It’s not about how much you give but rather the amount you give from the little that you have. Unlike in the cosmo world where people have a lot but yet when asked to give they are hesitant or reluctant to do so. Sometimes I’m guilty as charged as well. Who do we blame? Can we blame it on the society that has shaped us? Yes it does play a part considering the mandatory costs that it demands from us but ultimately it’s us who make the decisions.

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Day 4 : 30/12


There were no lessons for the day as today is help-out-in-the-garden day. It was dirty work but the kids don’t mind a single bit at all. From raking the soil, to uprooting the weeds, to shoveling and pouring buckets cow manure on the plants which I did too. Actually it is not really very bad smelling once the manure has dried up to a certain extent. Given that cows only eat grass and we humans eat a shitload of junk. But of course we must attribute some part of global warming to them because of the methane gas they expel.

In the evening I took a group of young monks, few policemen and the orphanage’s 64 year old guardian for lesson. They were just beginning their ABC’s and speech lessons. It was a nice experience as the monks are actually quite funny and cheeky. They are between the ages of 13-19 except they do not have a routine like we normal folks do.   

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Day 5 : 31/12

 Tonight we had a party to usher in the New Year. Mr. Pean bought some beers for the staffs and I and about 4 dozen cokes for the kids. We went to the ponds and we dove in to round up all the big fishes with the net. My shirt went in white but came out dark brown and I found that a few small fishes had made their way into the pockets of my shorts. It was dirty and fun as hell at the same time.

it does tastes better if you grow and catch it yourself



We merried through the night with Khmer karaoke and traditional dance. Not to forget the potent 50% alcohol – rice whiskey. The tradition is that if a local guy toasts with you and he drinks 1 cup you have to drink 1 as well. If he downs 5 you got to do the same. Of course as the “distinguished guest” of the orphanage, many of the male staffs were taking turns to “welcome” me with a toast. Mind you I’m not being obnoxious but I am a really good drinker. But this rice whiskey concoction does live up to its reputation. In no time I was making quite a fool out of myself trying to follow the dance steps of the Khmer traditional dance with the kids.



I also learnt a introductory phrase from the kids:

“soo-s’day”
“kh’nyom ch’muah Ben.”
“niak aig how kh’nyom lok songha!”  

It means “Hi, I am Ben. You can call me Mr. Handsome!”


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Day 6 : 01/01

2011 began on a low when I woke up this morning and realized that the left side of my chaco sandals was missing. I found it 10 min later all chewed up and boy I was angry and both myself and the dogs. At myself for foolishly leaving it at the bottom of the steps because I didn’t want to dirty the room too much and at the dogs because I always fed them during meal times!! Men’s best friend all right…


It was the weekend and on weekends, the kids in the orphanage do not attend lessons but rather do whatever is needed within the orphanage. There were huge sacks of rice weighing about 150kg each waiting to e emptied and stored in the rice mill for sale and consumption during the rainy season. I went over to add some muscles and at one time one of the boys got his face smeared by chicken dung which was on the sack.  Everyone just stopped and ROFL-ed. Aha! So the acronym is true after all. Went over to the ponds and dug some earthworms and from the ground and it was time for fishing with bamboo rods. It’s as basic as it can get.

Teamwork




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Day 11 : 06/01

No lessons today as all the kids were asked to help out in the garden. So I took a bicycle and cycled 5km out to the ricefields and catch the sunset. I saw some kids there and a thought came to my mind.

“How would they look at theirsimple life they grew up in after they had a taste of what living in a modern and cosmopolitan city is like?”






25122010 -HoHoHo border control wishes you a merry xmas! But before you go would you please leave 2 USD for our poker night this evening?

As I crossed the overland border from Laos to Cambodia, i met officials demanding for "stamp and overtime fees" again. I told myself that I would not tolerate such crap anymore because it is not officially stated that we must pay. i was already pretty sick and tired of the money sucking antics of some locals and officials by then that i decided enough was enough. It is a literal act of extortion as they withheld my passport which they had absolute no right to.

while the rest of the foreigners paid up obligatorily, i decided to take a little risk and stand firm while insisting that i had no cash with me. gotta admit there was much adrenaline rushing in me after all they were the ones in possession of my passport and they could had been capable of anything. i told they officers very firmly and tried an intimidate-the-shit-outta-you form of eye contact. i would like to think that raising my voice did contribute to the cause. i told them that they better not f*** around with my passport because this is a critical piece of property. What?! you mean i have to be politically correct and angry at the same time?? hahaha:D

in the end i managed to go through all customs without paying a dime, all possessions and body parts in place, while the other falangs were cursin and complaining about the fees they "had" to pay. Guys if you ever find yourself in such a situation, please do not do what i just did because i don't think it pays off all the time. instead just remain firm, use appropriate language and ask for a receipt and identify the officers' name and shout it out loud and let him know that you will recommend him to the ministry for putting in a "good day's work"!

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other than such unpleasantries, Laos has been wonderful! from the roller coaster bus rides to the overwhelmingly warm locals to the beautiful Hmong girls;p Although you may meet some unscrupuluos once in a while who are more interested in transactions than interactions, there are more who are very friendly and mostly curious about you. as you meet such happy and friendly people on the road, naturally you will be more positive towards others and the environment around you even when it's unfavourable. Overall it's very safe to travel in Laos and you will feel the same way even as a lone traveller.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

24122010 - 4000 islands that was Christmas island

While in Luang Prabang i stayed in a dorm and there was an aussie girl beside my bunk and we conversed and i found out that her dad is singaporean as well. Bumped into her again at champasak and it just one of the many times i bumped into people whom i met earlier in thailand or northern laos. It was instances after instances of serendipities. We were heading the same way so we wet out to the main road to hitch the ride down to the south for our boat to the islands. We waited for nearly 2 hrs before it came and we were looking forward to some island relaxation over xmas on hammocks and book in hand.

On the island i bought a book about a lady who cycled across africa on her own.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Esprit-Battuta-Across-Africa-Bicycle/dp/1854106295
Just the kind of read that keeps me going. Si Phan Don is gorgeous during sunsets and i'll leave you with some proof to that.

peppered on the mekong which gives the name 4000 islands



Li Phi falls which locals believe the evil spirits are washed
down to.

 had to climb out for this.

tourists had died here before












During the day i pondered on the impact of tourism on a once peaceful island like Don Det and Don Khon. Before tourism arrived I believe it was just a village which goes about planting rice, crops, rearing poultry and fishing in the Mekong. Now you see bamboo huts peppered around the island. Pizza bars, cafes and even Indian restaurants have all sprung up. Yes these are things that generate money for the locals and boost their once meager incomes. However at what expense?
The loss of a once peaceful and undisturbed way of life in exchange for falang $$. I do believe there are a handful of villagers on the islands that wished tourism hadn’t arrived and life would be as it is during their time when they’ve never seen a bottle of coke before. Though many travelers came with the intention of enjoying the views and hardly interfere with the locals and mostly have genuine and sincere interactions,  I would really like to know what they really think of having us here and how our presence had altered their way of life?

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At night we had a mini xmas dinner gathering with all the people living in the guest house and also a family staying else where that came over to the guest house restaurant. It was a cauldron of cultures and we were treated to 'Lao Lao' 50% alcohol rice whiskey by the GH owner. One of the best xmas's in my life and normally i'm not a sucker for festives.






22122010 - Champasak.

Wat phu Champasak was a little disappointing as major parts of the temple had collapsed due to exposure to the elements, especially rainwater which destroys the sandstone in god speed. After all they were hundreds of years old and it is still a worthy place to visit if you’re here to explore and visualize the empire that it once was rather than to snap a picture to bring home. Restoration works are ongoing to rebuilt the south palaces and prevent them from turning from a Unesco site to a pile of crumbled stone blocks.


the crazy market and pickups i took to get to champasak
 that pile goods about 2 metres high




not exactly picture perfect but preservation
needs to be done.

21122010 - Pakse and thoughts so far in Laos.

Another epic 15 hour bus ride on a Lao bus and this time they had folk music blasting from 8pm till the nights and it was a real uphill battle to stay sane for the length of the trip. Had people vomiting on the aisle of the bus and onto boxes of goods. good thing my backpack was the first one in the luggage compartment. There isn't anything much to do in Pakse as it is more of a gateway for travellers heading down to champasak or 4000 islands. Replenished sleep lost on the bus and bought the local coffee.

common sights 


the mekong beside pakse






As i draw to the end of my time in Laos, i've realised that things are not as cheap as i've expected it to be. Many travelers feel the same way too. With a daily budget of about 30sgd, I’ve been averaging 20-25. reason being transport bites a considerable chunk of it as traveling within Laos is not filled with many options. Most of the time the tourists also unknowing pay a bit more than the locals do. To be honest as much as I loved the places I’ve been in this country so far, this practice is really annoying and leaves a bad taste in the mouth. Although it’s not those rip-you-off-till-you’re-almost-broke kind of money, they do add up and it’s not nice to see some of the locals’ lack of integrity.
Sure enough as a traveler we ought to expect ourselves being overcharged from time to time but to have to do it consistently doesn’t sit well for me. That is why I hate it when other travelers give in meekly and overpay despite knowing it. This gives the locals the impression that we are ok with paying more and it just encourages them to do it to the next group of people.
The same with children I met while cycling through the villages of Nong Khiaw where they run up to us and asked for pens, sweets and one dollar. Giving in to their doe eyed faces means you have a kind heart but at the same time is encourages the children to cultivate it into a bad habit and they become dependent and start to develop ‘begging’ tendencies. The best thing I believe you can give to the kids is your time. Be playful with them, entertain them in any way you can and at the end of the day you can still put a smile on their faces without a giveaway of candies and pens. Leave that chore to Santa Claus .

19122010 - Vientianne the smallest capital in the world.

Vientianne is a very relaxed capital and nothing like the craze of its neighbour countries. Went around and visited the tourist sites before taking the 15hour night bus to Pakse. On top of that the highlight was getting to purchase a jar of god-sent nutella from the mart. Bless the souls of the guys who founded nutella!


Pha That Luang the nation's most important
temple and building


Patuxai, Laos' very own Arc De Triomphe



It's very own  Avenue des Champs-Élysées